ANUA · Reviewed by Doctorly · Published 2026-07-30
Based on a review by Doctorly (accessed 2026-07-30).
Based on this review alone: buy it if you care about effective for treating acne, dark spots, and rosacea — just accept initial market confusion and debate regarding its efficacy due to its solubilized, higher ph form.
The reviewers definitively conclude that the online debate is unfounded, stating that "it actually truly is better to use a higher pH solubilized version of azelaic acid." They support this by citing a study that showed superior penetration and efficacy for the higher pH, solubilized form compared to lower pH, suspended formulations.
This video investigates the viral claim that popular azelaic acid products, specifically Anua and Medicago, are scams due to their formulation in a salt form at a higher pH. Dermatologists Dr. Dray and Dr. Maxfield provide a deep dive into the chemistry, formulation differences, and skin penetration efficacy of azelaic acid to debunk these claims.
ANUA Azelaic Acid Serum is effective, successfully debunking widespread online claims that its higher pH and ionized form render it a scam. While in a salt form, extensive pharmaceutical literature indicates that solubilized ingredients can still penetrate the skin effectively, and azelaic acid's benefits aren't solely reliant on deep absorption but also its surface action against bacteria and mites. If you are seeking an azelaic acid product with a pleasant, non-gritty texture and minimal irritation, this serum is highly recommended. However, if you prefer formulations that prioritize a lower pH and suspended non-ionized acid despite potential discomfort, you should explore alternative options.
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The video opens by addressing a viral 'scandal' where online users claim that Anua and Medicago azelaic acid products are complete scams, stating they don't contain real azelaic acid and simply don't work.
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Dermatologists prescribe azelaic acid for its multiple benefits, including treating acne, dark spots, and rosacea, and it's notably one of the few ingredients considered safe during pregnancy.
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One reviewer applies two different forms of azelaic acid to the other reviewer's arms: one is solubilized and allowed to drip, while the other is rubbed in like a normal product application, setting up a visual experiment.
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Azelaic acid is a diprotic dicarboxylic acid that loses protons at two different pH values: its first pKa is 4.5, and it becomes fully ionized (salt form) above 5.3 pH.
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The reviewers confirm that the online claim is true regarding Anua azelaic acid having a higher pH and therefore being in its salt or ionized form.
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Traditional azelaic acid products, especially those with higher concentrations, often feel gritty and provide an unpleasant sensorial experience, whereas the Anua product is noted for being very watery, aesthetic, and visually pleasing.
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At a lower pH (below 4.5), azelaic acid is in its non-ionized form but has poor solubility, requiring it to be suspended. This results in a gritty texture that can burn, sting, and be uncomfortable, especially for sensitive skin.
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To achieve better solubility and texture, brands formulate azelaic acid at a higher pH in its salt form, allowing it to dissolve and result in a better texture for the skin.
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The skin barrier prevents substance entry based on molecule size and charge; more charged (ionized) molecules are less likely to permeate the skin.
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A study comparing azelaic acid at pH 3.9 (suspended, non-ionized) versus pH 4.9 (solubilized, ionized) definitively showed that the 4.9 pH version had better penetration, absorption, and flux into the skin, indicating better efficacy.
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Based on the study findings, the reviewers conclude that it is definitively better to use a higher pH solubilized version of azelaic acid.
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The reviewer shows his arm where the non-solubilized azelaic acid was applied, revealing a white, crusty, dry, and flaky residue, in contrast to the other arm where the solubilized version was applied and left no visible residue.
Despite claims that Anua Azelaic Acid is ineffective because it's in a salt form at a higher pH, scientific studies discussed by dermatologists indicate the opposite. This solubilized, higher pH form actually demonstrates better penetration and efficacy in the skin compared to traditional lower pH, suspended formulations.
Many older or lower pH azelaic acid formulations are suspended, leading to a gritty, uncomfortable, and potentially stinging texture on the skin. In contrast, newer solubilized formulations, which use a higher pH, are smooth, watery, and more aesthetically pleasing, a difference visually demonstrated and explained by the reviewers.
The skin acts as a barrier, primarily keeping out large or highly charged molecules. While common dogma suggests non-ionized (uncharged) molecules penetrate better, studies show that solubilized (ionized, higher pH) azelaic acid surprisingly achieves better absorption and deeper penetration, leading to greater efficacy.
Dermatologists commonly prescribe azelaic acid due to its versatile benefits, including effectively treating acne, reducing dark spots, and managing rosacea. It is also one of the few active ingredients that is considered safe for use during pregnancy.
100/100 source quality
Dermatologists Dr. Dray and Dr. Maxfield address the widespread online controversy surrounding Anua and Medicago azelaic acid products, which are claimed to be ineffective scams. They explain the nuanced chemistry of azelaic acid, including how its ionization state at different pH levels influences its texture and skin penetration. The video contrasts traditional gritty, low pH formulations with newer, smooth, high pH solubilized versions. Crucially, they present scientific evidence demonstrating that the higher pH, ionized form of azelaic acid actually penetrates the skin more effectively, making it a superior formulation. A hands-on demonstration visually reinforces the texture differences.
Full transcript is not redistributed here to respect the original creator’s rights.
This page converts Doctorly's review of the ANUA ANUA Azelaic Acid Serum into structured evidence — timestamped claims, pros & cons, and buyer questions. It is not the original review and does not replace watching or reading the full source.
Brand relationship disclosed as: affiliate